I

Full Grain

The hide in its most complete form — untouched, unreduced

• The outermost grain surface of the hide is left entirely intact — no sanding, no buffing, no correction. Every pore, wrinkle, and natural mark is preserved exactly as the animal carried it, making every piece wholly unique
• Because the surface fibres are undisturbed, full grain leather breathes, flexes, and responds to body heat and natural oils over time — developing a rich, deeply personal patina that deepens with each year of wear
• The House uses full grain for structured jackets and formal commissions where longevity and living character are the measure of the garment; it is the most demanding material to cut and construct with, and the most rewarding to wear across decades

II

Top Grain

Refined uniformity without surrendering the core of the hide

• The outermost grain surface is lightly sanded or buffed to remove natural imperfections, scars, and surface variation — leaving a cleaner, more consistent face that takes dye and finish more evenly across the full span of large panels
• More workable than full grain in construction terms, with a refined and polished handle that holds colour with exceptional consistency — the standard for structured tailored leather wear where visual uniformity is as important as structure
• Still carries significant durability and a long wear life; while it will not develop the same depth of patina as full grain, it ages with dignity, holds its structure through seasons of regular use, and rewards careful maintenance

III

Suede

The inner split — soft, directional, alive with light

• Produced from the lower split of the hide — the inner fibrous layer separated from the grain side — and buffed on the exposed surface to raise a soft, dense nap; lambskin suede is the finest grade, with the shortest and most consistent nap of all available hides
• The nap direction shifts how light falls across the surface: suede changes tone as the body moves, absorbing or reflecting depending on angle — giving the garment a living, fluid quality that smooth leathers cannot replicate
• Reserved by the House for unlined layering jackets, fluid casual coats, and occasion pieces where the material's drape and softness define the silhouette; suede requires deliberate maintenance but rewards consistent care with a surface that only improves

IV

Bonded / Genuine

Reconstituted — and worth knowing precisely why

• Leather scraps, shavings, and fibrous waste from the processing of higher grades are ground, mixed with polyurethane binder, and pressed onto a backing sheet — the result carries the surface appearance of leather with none of its structural integrity
• It peels, cracks, and delaminates under regular wear; it cannot absorb conditioners, will not develop patina, and offers no long-term durability — its grade classification as leather is a technical definition, not a quality endorsement
• The House does not use bonded or genuine leather in any commission. It is included here for honest education — understanding what not to commission is as important as knowing what to choose; a bespoke garment is measured by decades, not seasons

Not Used by The House