Fabric Fundamentals

Short-staple, breathable, built for skin comfort

Thread count — warp plus weft threads per square inch — governs the handle: 160–220 TC for shirt-grade cloth, 300–400 TC for fine bespoke shirting; fibre length and yarn count determine quality before thread count is even considered
The House uses 100s and 120s Egyptian and Pima cotton — it accepts dye cleanly, softens with each wash without losing structure, and breathes naturally against the skin from the first wearing

Flax fibre — cool, strong, and honestly textured

Fineness measured in lea count — the number of 300-yard leas per pound of yarn; 28–36 lea produces the lightweight, fine-draping cloth for summer commissions; its hollow fibre core conducts heat away faster than cotton at the same weight
Natural slub and slight surface crispness are properties, not flaws — they signal origin, distinguish instantly from synthetic imitation, and soften gracefully with wear while retaining the characteristic drape

III

Scaled, crimped, built to remember its shape

Microscopic cuticle scales on each fibre interlock to hold structure and resist wrinkle; natural crimp traps air between strands, creating insulation that no flat synthetic can replicate — and a cloth that responds to steam pressing with precision nothing else matches
Fineness measured in microns; the House works with Super 100s–130s for structured commissions where drape and durability both matter — fine enough to move well, substantial enough to last decades

The only continuous natural filament — lustre from structure, not surface

The only continuous natural filament — one cocoon yields up to 1,200 metres of unbroken strand; woven filaments produce a surface so smooth it catches and shifts light with every movement, permanently, without any applied finish
Each fibre's triangular prism cross-section refracts light at every angle — the source of silk's lustre; weight measured in momme, and the House uses 16–19mm for all garment elements: light enough to move, substantial enough to hold its line

Softness and structure — united by the loom

A 55/45 blend captures cotton's soft, consistent handle alongside linen's cooling drape and honest texture — more fluid than pure linen, more substantial than plain cotton; the linen slub remains visible, distinguishing the cloth from anything synthetic
Correct for structured shirts, relaxed jackets, and warm-climate commissions where breathability and refined handle are both required in a single cloth

Blend Commission

Year-round performance in a single cloth

A 70/30 blend works across seasons — wool's natural crimp holds the garment's structure through a full day of wear while cotton softens the handle and reduces care demands; warm in cool air, not heavy in warmth
The House uses cotton-wool blends for transitional commissions built to be worn every day they are needed — not saved for the right season

Blend Commission